京都之旅（上）---不能爱上你（二十八）_《不能爱上你》

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京都之旅（上）---不能爱上你（二十八）（2/2）

    安妮早打电话订好了在宇多野的青年旅馆（宇多野ユースホステル，KyotoUtanoYouthHostel)。她们住的是六人的大房间，林欣在安妮的上铺。旅馆里有一间很大的榻榻米房间，晚间八点钟可以来这里喝茶。青年旅馆的房客大都是&amp;ldquo;贫穷旅行&amp;rdquo;（貧乏旅行）的学生和年轻人。有日本人，也有像安妮、林欣这样的外国人。

    因为青年旅馆离京都市中心比较远，所以安妮和林欣决定头两天先在京都周边的嵐山、大原、嵯峨野、東映太秦映画村这些比较近的地方转转，最后两天一天去奈良，最后一天在京都市内走走。

    放下了行李，她们拿了地图和相机出门坐巴士去大原的三千院。

    下了车在去往三千院的山路上拾级而上，满山的翠色扑面而来。沿路有不少卖纪念品的民艺品店，所卖的东西大同小异，做工都十分精巧。安妮挑了一家叫做もろしろ的，这里要经营一些用和纸做的小工艺品。安妮说要给妈妈买一样礼物寄到美国去。

    林欣自己看中了一只樱花色底子印着白色小兔子的去油纸小夹子（あぶらとりケース），正拿起来翻来复去地看，坐在收银台后面的女店起身走过来问到：&amp;ldquo;小姐是哪里人？&amp;rdquo;&amp;ldquo;中国人。&amp;rdquo;林欣笑了笑说。

    妇人吃了一惊，随即告诉林欣，三年前她被邀请到无锡参加一个盆景交流活动，她们的代表团经过市内时，那个路段的交通部门专门为他们暂停了所有车辆的通过。

    &amp;ldquo;无锡人真是热情啊！&amp;rdquo;妇人很感概地说。

    她又絮絮叨叨告诉林欣她叫岸下君子，是从关东地嫁过来的。岸下这个姓是只有在大原这一带才有的姓。

    这时安妮也挑好了她的礼物----一把轻巧的折扇。

    岸下君子细心地用两张淡蓝色的包装纸把二人买的东西包好，又在上面各贴了一朵和纸做的红叶做装饰。林欣和安妮都夸包装上贴的红叶漂亮，岸下君子听了忙用一只小塑料袋给林欣和安妮各装了些，还另装了些秋樱（コスモス）。林欣告诉她自己最喜欢山口惠唱的《コスモス》，岸下君子简直高兴极了。

    她一直将两人送到店门口才鞠躬告辞。

    &amp;ldquo;日本的东西，包装可真雅致！&amp;rdquo;林欣端详着自己手里的小包说，&amp;ldquo;中国的包装可没有这么讲究！&amp;rdquo;&amp;ldquo;我们美国的包装也没这么麻烦！日本的包装，好看是好看，就是太浪费了！随便买个什么小东西，都得兴师动众地包上好几层。少用点包装纸，东西还能便宜点呢！&amp;rdquo;&amp;ldquo;安妮，你小时候怎么不跟你妈妈学日语呢？&amp;rdquo;林欣早就想问安妮这个问题了。

    &amp;ldquo;我也不知道！反正我妈没教我。&amp;rdquo;安妮耸耸肩说。

    &amp;ldquo;我小时候住在佐治亚。我们住的那个地方没什么亚洲人。小学那会儿因为我和别的孩子长得不一样，大家都不跟我玩。只有一个黑人小女孩跟我玩。我爸知道了特别不高兴，他说黑人都没有教养。&amp;rdquo;林欣听了便说：&amp;ldquo;很多中国人也这么想。&amp;rdquo;&amp;ldquo;唉，我爸这种想法让我觉得挺羞耻的。不过&amp;rdquo;安妮喘口气,接着说:&amp;ldquo;我大一的时候和一个黑人是室友,她还真是不怎么样!&amp;rdquo;林欣不禁想到以前店长说的:哪个国家都有好人,哪个国家也都有不好的人。

    三千院是一所很大的寺院。非常朴素，没有雕梁画栋。进入大殿之前要将鞋子脱下来，放在寺里准备的塑料袋子里。安妮和林欣都赞道：日本真是个清洁的国家。寺外的山林里满眼苍翠，耳边是鸟鸣和潺潺的溪流声。这才是真正的世外桃源！

    午餐她们选了一家名为&amp;ldquo;吕川茶屋&amp;rdquo;的小饭馆。若有若无的三味线曲子，榻榻米的坐席，林欣恍若是置身于《伊豆舞女》的时代。两人都点了京野菜うど（蔬菜乌冬面），配着黄的南瓜、绿的菠菜和微带紫色的紫蘇，蘸着人自制的用多种小鱼熬成的汤，还有用芋头汁和生鸡蛋拌的とろろ。在京都，一切品牌都被冠以&amp;ldquo;京&amp;rdquo;---京菓子（点心）、京人形（娃娃）、京扇子、京味噌、京仏具（佛具）连个&amp;ldquo;都&amp;rdquo;都懒得说,因为骄傲的京都人认为只有京都的日语才是最正统的,京都人才是最懂礼仪的,京都的生活才是最优雅的，总之，京都是独一无二的。京都才是真正的日本。在中国大概北京人也有类似的优越感吧。林欣的表哥就最不喜欢《故乡是北京》那个歌。

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